Sian’s Caribbean Kitchen: Honoring My Grandmother’s Legacy Through Cooking

When I got a phone call that my grandmother was in the hospital dying, it felt like a bad joke. It was less than a year after the sale of her Florida house was finalised. One of the last times I spent with her was photographing us making black cake together. A large part of that documentation was an effort to manage my feeling like I was losing another part of a heritage that I frequently feel only marginally entitled to.

I was in denial about her dying. I left work and dragged myself home, still partially convinced that it was just a bad joke. Despite my best efforts at denial, it was not a joke. I had a month to mentally and emotionally prepare myself to return to Jamaica for my grandmother’s funeral or be forever on the receiving end of pointed stares and whispers.

I tried my best to get out of it with half-baked excuses. I couldn’t afford it. I didn’t want to leave my apartment empty for that long. It was too close to the end of the year. I got on the plane anyway. Returning to Jamaica, a culture partly mine but only vaguely familiar, felt surreal. But the week forced me to confront the privilege and comfort I enjoyed at the expense of my grandmother and mother. Articulating the feeling of limbo to my mother felt like an exercise in futility, but I imagine other first-gen children know exactly what I’m talking about. I wanted to feel at ease surrounded by family, speaking a language I’d heard all my life, but mostly I felt awkward and out of place, like a tourist in my own home. Amidst the chaos, a common thread emerged: food. Every day began, and ended, in the kitchen, gathered around family. It helped me feel closer to my grandmother, like I was carrying on her legacy.

Weeks later, back in Pittsburgh, I’m reminded of the comfort of being on the island. The daily Facetime calls with family and the taste of familiar food always bring me back to an absurdly steep little hill just outside of Negril.

It’s strange to consider that the last time I stood in this kitchen, my brother and I were little more than his son’s age.

Since I’ve last been home, 20 years ago, an entirely new generation has been born, absorbing the threads that keep us tied to each other.

I always worry about what will be lost in my decision to not have children, especially when I know the importance the kitchen holds for us.

But when I see my 11-year-old cousin and my two-year-old nephew demand to be involved, when I see them insist on watching the process, I feel a little less guilty.

It’s chaotic, messy, and hot as hell. Every door stands wide open, begging for even the slightest breeze.

My grandmother and her sister are known, across Sheffield, for their meals. Pearce Top, a sprawling plot of land that our family has lived on for more than 50 years, is legendary for holiday meals, Christmas especially, so how could we disappoint?

I still don’t know how we managed to fit almost 15 people in five bedrooms with no A/C, while feeding even more, but we did because that’s what we do.

That’s what we’ve always done. From my grandfather, to my mother, to me, and now beyond—we feed people.

So even though my grandmother isn’t here anymore, she gets to live on, in the kitchen and beyond.

It helps to know that this little family and its little traditions will survive, and thrive, across oceans and generations.

RECIPE:

Sian's Curry Chicken
Adapted from an original recipe first published in Nyammings by Sian Rose

Prep Time 10 Minutes
Cook Time 40 Minutes      Serves 4 to 6

INGREDIENTS

1 Tbsp of neutral oil

2 Tbsp of curry powder

1 Tsp of salt

1 Tsp of black pepper

5 whole berries or ½ Tsp of ground allspice

1 sprig of fresh thyme

2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped

Optional: 1 Tsp of red pepper flakes

1 medium onion, chopped

1 medium potato, cubed

Optional: 2 medium carrots, chopped

2 lbs of chicken, chopped (bone-in or boneless)

½ cup of water

INSTRUCTIONS

Heat oil in a large skillet or dutch pot over medium heat. Add curry powder and stir until the oil is absorbed. A small amount of smoke from the powder is normal.
Add the remaining seasonings, garlic, and onion. Stir well.
Once the garlic and onions are fragrant, add the chicken, stirring until completely coated.
Reduce heat to medium-low and let cook for 20 minutes.
Add water, thyme, carrots, and potatoes. Stir well. Cover and let simmer for an additional 10-15 minutes. Serve.

Serving suggestions: For an authentic Jamaican experience, serve with rice and peas, boiled dumplings, and ground provisions or steamed cabbage and carrots.

Author’s note: In Jamaican kitchens, it is standard to wash meat with vinegar and/or lime, before pre-seasoning, at least 2 hours in advance of cooking. The USDA warns that washing meat can increase the risk of cross-contamination and foodborne illness. This recipe is an adaptation that will yield equally delicious results, while reducing prep time and undue risk.