There’s a longstanding ackee tree outside of Suzanne Barr’s home in Plantation, Florida—the same home the chef and cookbook author grew up in.
“It’s actually blooming right now,” Barr shares with excitement. It’s been there for decades, first planted by her parents when they moved to the States to settle their family, intent on having a daily reminder of their Jamaican roots.
“This ackee tree represents us as a Caribbean family,” says Barr, proudly adding that her son, whose bedroom window now overlooks the tree, is a lover of the fruit. Barr wouldn’t have it any other way.
Barr’s award-winning culinary career has taken her back to Jamaica; it’s also taken her all over the country and world from New York and Atlanta to France and South Korea, and far beyond. She’s opened two restaurants in Toronto (her birthplace), manages various private clients, frequently collaborates on pop-ups with like-minded chefs, and, in 2022, released her first book, My Ackee Tree: A Chef’s Memoir of Finding Home in the Kitchen. It’s part cookbook, part memoir, documenting the life events that brought her closer to home and shaped her cooking journey.
The book is in part inspired by one of the last trips she took with her mom in the early 2000s before she passed. It was back to Jamaica, where Barr was beautifully overwhelmed by all that she learned about her mother’s childhood. “It was a trip that really connected me to her,” says Barr. “I was able to understand who she was.”
Now, years later, Barr asks herself, “How can I keep the things I love?”—including these sacred memories. This question serves as the foundation for her book and overall way of living. She’s seemingly found the formula: never forgetting where she comes from, taking time to travel for the work she loves, and always ensuring she’s playing a present role for her son, husband and extended family.
Part of the evolving love in her life is finding connections across cuisines. “I remember when I was in Seoul, South Korea, for a project; I was cooking at the Canadian embassy and met a chef who was going to take me exploring,” she says. “We were eating something together and he was like, ‘Oh, this dish you’re making reminds me of this dish that we make here.’” She recalls making pepper shrimp that day, and the two bonding over the similarities in fermentation methods across both cultures.
With Sweet July, Barr shares a classic Jamaican dish, Ackee with Whipped Salted Cod, Tomato Consomme and Festival Dumplings—a favorite from her book. It’s a special one, because it respectfully challenges the traditional way ackee is served. “I got a lot of flack from Jamaicans who said, ‘What do you mean you’re serving ackee cold?’” But when they tried it, they were like, “Oh, okay.”
That’s what Barr’s cooking is all about: Embracing tradition, but not being afraid to also expand boundaries. “I love to just push us a bit out of the comfort of what we know and into a place of understanding how versatile and how incredibly dynamic our food is.”
Get the recipe below!
Plus: Looking for the perfect wine to pair with this dish? Sweet July’s wine consultant Julia Coney recommends Sancerre. Coney says, “Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley of France called Sancerre has a soft and vibrant nose of white flowers and citrus fruit. On the palate it lends itself to being crisp, elegant, and refreshing. It’s a compliment to the consommé and the fattiness of the cod.”
RECIPE:
Suzanne Barr’s Ackee Terrine with Whipped Salted Cod, Tomato Consomme and Festival Dumplings
INGREDIENTS
For the Ackee (serves 6 – 1 inch portions)
3 cans ackee, (1,620 mL) drained
1 tablespoon (15 mL) extra-virgin olive oil
1 small red onion, diced
2 teaspoons (10 mL) fresh thyme leaves, divided
½ teaspoon (2 mL) sea salt
4 tablespoons gelatine powder
1 cup (250 mL) fresh blueberries, washed and cut in half
For the Whipped Coconut Salted Cod (serves 6)
8 ounces (225 g) salt cod fillets, and pieces
2 medium yukon potatoes, 1/2 cup potato mash – dry roasted on salt in oven
1 clove garlic
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1 cup (250 mL) canned coconut milk
1 bay leaf
¾ cup (175 mL) extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons fresh lemon zest
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Salt
Pinch of white pepper
For the Tomato Consomme (serves 6 – ¼ cup portions)
1 pound ripe roma tomatoes
2 scallions, cut ends and trim, cut into thirds
1 tablespoon (15 mL) fresh thyme leaves (12 sprigs)
1 teaspoon (5 mL) chopped red scotch bonnet pepper (roughly ½ scotch bonnet roughly chopped – seeds included)
1 tablespoon (15 mL) extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoon (45 mL) coconut liquid aminos
1 cup water
1 tsp sea salt
For the Festival Dumplings (makes 12)
2 ¼ cups (625 mL) all-purpose flour
¾ cup (175 mL) medium ground cornmeal
3 tablespoons (45 mL) granulated sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder
¾ ( 4 mL) teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon (2 mL) grated nutmeg
2 to 3 tablespoons (30 to 45 mL) softened salted butter
1 cup (250 mL) buttermilk
1 liter of canola or vegetable oil
INSTRUCTIONS
For the Ackee: Brush the inside of a 8½- x 4½-inch (1.5 L) loaf pan with canola oil. Line the inside of the pan with plastic wrap, making sure to leave at least a 1-inch (2.5 cm) overhang on each side then you will fold back onto the top once filled with ackee. This will help to easily pull the terrine out of the model once it’s set.
- Lay a few paper towels on a clean work surface. Arrange the ackee on the paper towels allowing them to soak up any excess water.
Place the olive oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and 1 teaspoon thyme leaves and cook until caramelized, about 7 to 9 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.
Place 2 cups (250 mL) water in a small saucepan over low heat. Add the gelatine and whisk to combine. Bring the mixture to a simmer and let simmer for 5 minutes stirring constantly. Remove the saucepan from the heat.
Place the ackee into a high-speed blender. Puree until creamy and smooth. While blender is still on slowly add gelatine and water mixture to the ackee. Blend for an additional minute, until combined. Transfer the ackee mixture to a large bowl. Fold in the blueberries, caramelized onions, and the remaining 1 teaspoon of thyme leaves. Transfer the mixture to the prepared loaf pan. Use a spatula to smooth the top of the terrine. Using the extra plastic wrap, fold carefully on top of terrine before placing it in fridge protecting it. Place in the fridge for at least 2 hours, or overnight, to set.
Remove the terrine from the fridge. Grab hold of the plastic wrap overhanging the two long edges of the pan. Carefully lift the terrine from pan and place it on a clean cutting board. Run your knife under scalding water before cutting the terrine into 1-inch (2.5 cm) slices. Arrange the slices on a wide pasta bowl. If desired, use a kitchen torch to char the edged of the terrine, releasing the flavour and smells of ackee. Regardless if you have a torch the flavour of the ackee are rich and present.
- For the Whipped Coconut Salted Cod: Rinse the salt cod fillets under cold running water until all of the salt on the surface has been washed away. Transfer the salt cod to a large bowl and cover with fresh water 5 cups. Cover and refrigerate for 24 hours.
- Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Line a baking tray with ¼ cup kosher salt placed into a mound.. Place washed and scrubbed Yukon potato onto the salt mound. Bake unpeeled Yukon potatoes until easily pierced with a fork, about 45 min. Allow to cool. Cut the potatoes in half, lengthwise. Scoop the potato flesh from the skins, and mash using a food mill, ricer, or potato masher. Approximately you should yield 1/2 cup of yukon potato mash. Set aside.
Remove the salt cod from the fridge and drain. Place it in a medium saucepan. Cover with cold unsalted water and bring to boil. Remove from heat and drain. Return the cod to the saucepan. Add the whole clove of garlic, thyme, coconut milk, and bay leaf. Set over medium-high heat and bring to a simmer. Let simmer for 15 minutes. Remove the saucepan from heat and let the cod stand in cooking liquid for 20 minutes. Drain the liquid, making sure to reserve the garlic. Discard the thyme and bay leaf.
- Using a fork flake the salt cod in a small bowl, discarding any bones and silvery membranes. Transfer the salt cod and the clove of garlic to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. With the mixer on medium-high speed, drizzle in the olive oil until fully incorporated. Drizzle in half-and-half and continue mixing until fully incorporated. Add the mashed potatoes and lemon zest and juice mixing just until fully incorporated. Season with ¼ tsp salt and ½ tsp white pepper. Place the whipped salted cod into a bowl and use a spoon to scoop out 2 tablespoons worth and place on top of terrine to be enjoyed.
- For the Tomato Consomme: Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Cut the tomatoes into quarters and then place in a large bowl. Add the scallions to the bowl with the tomatoes. Add the chopped thyme and scotch bonnet to the bowl. Toss to combine. Add the olive oil and salt and toss again to combine.
Spread the tomato mixture in an even layer on the prepared baking sheet and cover with foil. Roast for 20 minutes, then remove then uncover the tray and cook for another 15 minutes until the tomatoes are caramelized. Let cool.
Transfer the roasted tomato mixture to a high-speed blender. Add the coconut liquid aminos and water blend until smooth.
Line a fine-mesh sieve with two layers of cheesecloth and place it over a medium bowl. Pour the tomato puree into the lined sieve and gently fold the cheesecloth on top of the puree. Allow to hang overnight in the fridge. The next day the tomato consomme will be at the base of the bowl and re-season with 1 tsp of salt. Pour a ¼ cup of the consomme into a bowl with the terrine, salted cod on top while we make the dumpling.
- For the Festival Dumplings: In a large bowl, mix together the flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, salt, and nutmeg. Add the butter and work into flour mixture about 1 minute (do not over mix).
Make a well in the center and pour the buttermilk into it. Use a spoon first to knead the dough for about 30 seconds to 1 minute until a soft dough forms.
Divide dough into 12 equal pieces. Allow to rest on a tray or board for about minimum 15 mins before frying.
If making festivals, roll each piece of dough into the shape of a sausage, about 2 inches in diameter. If making dumplings, shape each portion of dough into a ball and then lightly flatten dough.
In a large or deep saucepan or stockpot over medium heat pour the oil, until it is at least 3 inches (8 cm) deep. Heat the oil until it is 350°F (180°C). Line a plate with paper towels.
Carefully lower about 3 festivals into the oil at a time with a slotted spoon. Using a slotted spoon be sure to turn festivals in oil making sure to brown on all sides. Fry until golden brown for about 4 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on a paper napkin. Repeat until all of the festivals have been fried. Let cool. To assemble with terrine add two festivals to the bowl break them in half placing the festival into the consumme surrounding the terrine on all 4 sides.
Enjoy and close your eyes between each bite. Dreaming of the national dish that continues to bring so much joy to so many.
